Capers

Capers are the small, unopened flower buds of a sprawling Mediterranean shrub (Capparis spinosa), picked by hand and preserved in either salt or a vinegar brine. Raw, the buds are actually quite bitter and unpalatable — it's the curing process that develops their distinctive briny, tangy punch.

Growing Caper Bushes

Caper bushes thrive on neglect, preferring poor, rocky, alkaline soil and baking hot, dry conditions — much like they're found growing wild out of cracks in Mediterranean stone walls. They're only reliably hardy in mild, frost-free climates and need to be grown in a container brought indoors for winter anywhere colder. Flower buds must be picked daily by hand while still tightly closed, before they can open.

Culinary Uses

Capers bring a briny, tangy punch to piccata, tartar sauce, and puttanesca, their small size letting them distribute intense flavor throughout a dish without dominating texture. Rinsing brined capers briefly before use tempers some of their saltiness if a recipe calls for a lighter touch.